Hiraeth!
Friday, September 26, 2003
  Greetings Fron Deepest Darkest Peru You will be glad to learn that I am still alive and kicking, and having a ball, though this time I am in the City of Cusco in Peru at the foot of the Inca Trail to the lost city of Macchu Picchu.



Since my last mail I have had many adventures, including geting caught up in Bolivian Riots, Driving through Road Blockades set in place by protestors, Mountain biking down the worlds most dangerous road, staying with a Cechwan Family on the islands of Lake Titticaka and getting caught up in one of the worst Hail Storms I have ever witnessed.......Life is good!
Cusco is party central, and there are hundreds of gringos here both pre and post inca trail who are just kicking back and enjoying one of the coolest cities I have seen so far. Bar´s, shop´s, restaurants, clubs a plenty - beer costs about 70pence, a good meal may cost as little at 3pounds! - the sun is shining, and i have just brought a waterproof poncho, ever the cynic!! - apparently the weather changes quickly on the trail.



I have elected to carry my own stuff on the trail, even though most of the group have taken the advice of others who have done the trail to pay porters to carry their packs. I am told the porters can do in about 8 hours, what it will take us 3 days to achieve....I am pretty confident that I am now fit enough to do this, because of the amount of trecking, and walking I have done at these altitudes allready, has knocked me in to better shape than I ever was in London!
For those interested....The people of Bolivia are up in arms about the governments plans to export gas to the coast using pipelines through Chile, Understandably the people of Bolivia resent the Chilean government charging for this service, because chilie stole Bolivias Coastline from them, during the war of the Pacific in the 1850´s. By way of registering their general unhappiness, they have taken to blocading roads with rocks, taking hostages, stoning buses of people and generally shouting a lot.

Luckily we managed to make it across to Peru on the Sunday when most of the protesters were in church so we had nothing more than the blocades themselves to negociate, and this is where being in an ex millitary transporter comes in handy. One of our party was teargassed, and is still bragging - we are designing a tour t Shirt and my suggestion for the slogan is now.. ´It will all end in Tear gas´

See the BBC´s pathetic attempt to explain what happened the day before....

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/3127750.stm

For those interested ...The worlds Most Dangerous Road...... I quote from our guides....

http://www.gravitybolivia.com/

We begin the ride at wind-swept La Cumbre (4,700m/15,400 ft) where you'll see fantastic views of a number of snow-covered peaks, including Huayna Potosí (6,088m/19,973 ft). From there we descend rapidly down a twisting road amongst mountain peaks, grazing llamas and alpacas, tiny villages and a drug check-post (?!). We stop for refreshments and a rest along the way, all the better to give us time to take in the scenery: towering cliff faces, dramatic drops and ever greener vegetation.

This infamous narrow dirt road is cut precariously into the side of the mountain and descends 2,000m (6,500ft). With 1,000m+ (3,300 ft) sheer drops off to our left and hulking rock overhangs and cascading waterfalls to our right, we ride through mist, low cloud and dust. With your positive attitude and our expert supervision you can safely enjoy some of South America's most dramatic and beautiful scenery as you hurtle down the road. (Besides, in our opinion, it's safer on this road riding a narrow bicycle that you are driving rather than being trapped inside a big bus.) - (Guess how we got back up)


I Shit you not!

As we near the end of the ride it gets progressively hotter and dustier. By the time you arrive at the bottom in Yolosa (1,100m/3,600 ft) you will be tired, hot, dirty and exhilarated. From Yolosa we catch a ride 7km (4 miles) up to Coroico (1,600m/5,250ft) ... although masochists may choose to cycle up ... where we can enjoy a late lunch, take in the magnificent scenery, spend time relaxing by the pool, and enjoy a cold drink.

See what happend 3 weeks earlier here! ...

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/americas/2233635.stm

Ok so I´m off for a siesta, love to everyone....
Eric
 




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